the beginning
Written by: Mark Samuel | Images by: Nicky Lloyd

The drive to Knysna from Cape Town is always pleasant. Small towns and farm stalls dot the N2 at perfect intervals, offering up fresh pies, creamy cappuccinos, and apple turn-overs to die for, meaning your holiday begins as you leave home. There are fuel stops aplenty, and all in it’s a five and a half hour drive, or perhaps seven if you’re taking it slow.
We left the Mother City a little before noon, and the shadows were lengthening as we turned into Belvidere Manor. Soft afternoon light welcomed us, warming the whitewashed walls of the grand old establishment. Down the slope from reception, the tidal lagoon – Knysna’s fulcrum – shimmered enticingly, and abundant birdlife frolicked in the trees. The Manor House presides over neat lawns that swoop around the pool and gazebo, and are bordered on two sides by free-standing cottages. After settling into ours, we strolled up to The Bell for an early dinner. Located right on site, it’s hands down the cosiest pub in town – just don’t forget to duck your head as you walk through the low front door.
Breakfast at Belvidere is a delicious affair, which explains why, the next morning, we were a bit late for our riverside meet-up with our fly-fishing guide, Chris Wood. Chris is a big man, with an even bigger smile. His welcoming manner puts you at ease – a useful trait if you’re feeling at all anxious about your fly-fishing skills. Or in my case, total lack thereof.
Chris knows a thing or two about adventuring in Southern Africa. In addition to Adventure On Fly, his guided-fishing operation that focuses on Garden Route estuaries, he co-owns Maplanga Africa with his wife Natalie. Established in 1998, it’s an adventure safari-operator business that promotes lodges and arranges experiences for travellers to Africa. Other facets of the business are TigerFishingZambezi, and VicFallsConnection.
‘Africa is in my blood,’ says Chris. ‘I was raised in Zambia, and then in 1980 moved to South Africa… I really can’t imagine living on any other continent.’ Listening to Chris’s stories of past adventures, it’s clear that sharing Southern Africa with others is his passion. And Adventure On Fly, here on the Garden Route, is an extension of that.
We met on the banks of the Knysna estuary, a little way along the famed Phantom Pass, not far from the N2 bridge that crosses the river. With his small inflatable boat and electric motor ready and waiting, Chris talked us through the plan for the day, while tying a fly to my line.
‘We’ll head a short distance downriver to some mudflats that often yield good results. We’ll fish for a few hours, hopefully get your casting action sorted, and then head back here for lunch… Tomorrow we’ll try the river at Sedgefield.‘
I fished a lot with my father, many years ago, but that was with conventional bait, and sometimes trawling with lures, so I was keen to know what sets fly fishing apart. Chris’s face lit up to the question: ‘Fly fishing is special – you’re simulating some of the target species’ prey…’ – insects – using artificial flies. That might sound a bit like traditional fishing, but it’s so much more subtle, more refined, because of the lightweight rods and reels we use, as well as the unique casting techniques.’





The mudflats, inlets and shallows of a healthy riverine system are abuzz with life. Insects thrum in the air, crabs scurry from hole to hole through the weeds, and small schools of tiny fish dart back and forth, tactics to avoid larger predators such as garrick, also known as leervis, and spotted grunter. grunter. It was those we were after, but recent heavy rains served up cloudy, suboptimal water conditions. I waded along the bank, river mud grabbing at my shoes, on the lookout for rises and movement on the edge of the shallows.
These are the signs of fishy action, and just the spot to cast your fly. I thought I had a bump on my line – or maybe it was just some river weed – and Chris definitely had a few, but as we cast and retrieved our way through the morning, luck wasn’t on our side. I suppose it’s called fishing, and not catching, for a reason. With all the focused attention, sun, and physical exertion, hunger came on quickly, prompting us to head back for a tasty lunch of roast-chicken drumsticks, bean- and broccoli salad, and creamy mashed potato.
We started the second day of fishing on the banks of the Sedgefield river, a spot about 20 minutes west of Knysna. Most travellers passing through this town only see a snippet from the N2, but weave your way through the suburbs and you’ll discover a thriving tidal river, the hub of the settlement. From the little inlet where we launched the inflatable, we buzzed downriver to a large sandbank, where local fishers were using hand-lines, hoping to hook a grunter too.
I thought I’d made solid progress with my casting action the day before, but things seemed to have regressed overnight. It took me several frustrating attempts to get any sort of meaningful distance on my fly. I waded up to my waist, the soft yellow sand squeezing between my toes, and plopped my fly out into the current where I hoped the bigger fish were feeding. Unfortunately, it wasn’t to be, even after trying several more promising spots nearer to where the locals were fishing.
Later, sitting around the camp table back at Chris’s Land Rover savouring another delicious lunch prepared by Natalie, Chris offered up some reassuring words. ‘Sometimes the fish just aren’t biting, no matter what you do… But I can assure you, they’re out there.’ But Chris needn’t have worried – I wasn’t bothered in the slightest about our lack of catching action. Spending a couple of days becoming closely acquainted with two immaculate Garden Route river systems felt like 48 hours very well spent. I hadn’t caught my first fish on fly, but I’d de-stressed, unwound, and learnt a new skill – all in a beautiful place. The perfect holiday recipe, if you ask me. etc
things to note
don’t forget
- Hat Sunglasses
- High-SPF sunblock Buff (to protect your neck from the sun)
- Long-sleeve quick-dry collared shirt
- Swimming shorts
- Rock/water shoes
what’s included
If you don’t have your own fishing equipment, Chris will supply everything you need. While fly fishing is the primary focus, light spinning is also an option. The main target species are garrick (leervis) and spotted grunter, and Chris will take you to the best spots on the Garden Route estuaries around Knysna. Trips are fully catered and ice-cold drinks are always on hand from a cooler.
